Monday
05Oct2009
Can Xiquet Hotel, Cantallops, Catalonia
Monday, October 5, 2009 at 12:07PM (September 29, 30 and October 1, 2009). A mere 10 kilometers over the Pyrenees from France, Can Xiquet is a world apart.
A Month-long Autumn Drive in Eastern Spain
In contrast to our trips in the last several years, for this visit to eastern Spain, we planned a type of trip we hadn't done in 35-40 years. We threw everything in the car and set off from Nice on September 29 for a five-six hour drive to our only reservation--Can Xiquet. In effect, a trip with no planning but a lot of preparation by Varian who had a long list of possibilities.
Numbers in red dots denote sequence of overnights in chronological order A few days into the trip we realized that this is not as off-season as we had presumed. In fact, we had to scramble for our first Saturday night reservation. With that in mind, we did some serious planning and made reservations for the rest of the trip, with only a few strike-outs because our first choice was full.
The two books that were indispensable were Alistair Sawday's Special Places in Spain and Thomas Cook's 25 Drives Around Catalonia and the Spanish Pyrenees. Also helpful were the government's book of paradores and the red and green Michelin.
Because some business in NYC arose, we had to cut the trip short and headed home but with plans to spend a night or two in the Ebro Delta and catch part of the major bird migration. The weather turned wet and gray so we decided just to head home, saving the Delta for another year. To break up the journey, we stopped mid-afternoon near Figueras close to the French border. Our original destination was one of two charming sounding inns, one with a starred restaurant. But both were closed that day. We overnighted instead at the Torre Mirona Relais and Country Club which turned out to be a lovely golf resort and spa. Not a bad ending for a great trip.
What follows is our day-to-day journal organized by the hotels, paradores, and inns where we stayed.
Monday, October 5, 2009 at 12:07PM Monday
05Oct2009
Hotel Calitxo, Molló, Catalonia
Monday, October 5, 2009 at 12:14PM (October 2, 3, 2009). Drives in this area continue to offer magnificent vistas and a gem of a town, Beget.
Monday
05Oct2009
Can Borrell, Merengues, Catalonia
Monday, October 5, 2009 at 01:36PM (October 4, 2009. Way up into the hills overlooking the Cerdanya is a charming inn with an elegant dining room
Wednesday
07Oct2009
Can Boix, Peramola, Catalonia
Wednesday, October 7, 2009 at 03:18AM (October 5,6, 2009) The tenth generation of hoteliers in this spot nailed it.
Saturday
10Oct2009
Casa Guilla, Santa Engracia near Tremp, Catalonia
Saturday, October 10, 2009 at 07:04AM (October 7, 2009) Quite literally, a bird's eye view
Saturday
10Oct2009
Parador de Olite, Olite, Navarra
Saturday, October 10, 2009 at 07:11AM (October 8, 9, 2009) A perfectly preserved old town
Sunday
11Oct2009
Gran Hotel la Perla, Pamplona, Navarra
Sunday, October 11, 2009 at 10:04AM (October 10, 11, 2009) Forget the running of the bulls and go for a tapas competition
Tuesday
13Oct2009
Hotel Sauce, Zaragoza, Aragon
Tuesday, October 13, 2009 at 12:49PM (October 12,13, 2009) Just in time for a colorful festival
Thursday
15Oct2009
Hotel Santa Maria, Sitges, Catalonia
Thursday, October 15, 2009 at 02:04PM (October 14,15, 2009) Quaint seaside town with a knockout boutique hotel
Monday
19Oct2009
Hotel Imperial Tarraco, Tarragona, Catalonia
Monday, October 19, 2009 at 02:10PM (October 16, 17, 2009) Roman ruins at every turn
Monday
19Oct2009
La Torre del Visco, Valderrobres, Aragon
Monday, October 19, 2009 at 02:19PM (October 18,19, 2009) Talk about far from the madding crowd